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1. #Photomatix pro 4.2.5 download registration
2. #Photomatix pro 4.2.5 download software
3. #Photomatix pro 4.2.5 download mac

I'm really an analogue person since 1942 when my first postcard format image was taken. Also not thoroughly adept at PS intricacies.

#Photomatix pro 4.2.5 download mac

I'm limited in using Photoshop - have only CS on a Mac G5 with 8Gb. Ivan Eberle, for me I'll work with some old exposures for now (4X5 and 35mm) but start using Ektar 4X5 soon. Turning down the Photomatix sliders makes sense.

#Photomatix pro 4.2.5 download registration

I procured Photomatix as a first try since it was recommended by SteimuellerĪnd Gulbins and they describe a bit about its use.Īs Kirk points out there seems to be high regard for the S-N-S HDR Pro and I assume that is often used in architectural work which I would guess is fairly demanding for capturing reality.Ĭjbroadbent, the registration of scanned 4X5s was one of my concerns since I could find nothing about HDR operations on scanned images so your comment is encouraging. I personally can't come close to these results with Photomatix.įWIW, even at the very top of the Architectural Photography profession, pretty much all practitioners that I know are using some HDR exposure blending technique to one extent or another.įolks, thanks for the discussion. None of these programs are perfect but the two I mentioned give you a file pretty close that can be further tweaked or combined in areas with a "straight" image for very satisfying results. If the desired effect is a natural looking exposure blend, I think most people will find Photomatix a pretty blunt tool compared to LR/Enfuse (for about a two stop compression) or S-N-S HDR Pro (for up to about a 4 stop compression). I sometimes use Photomatix, other times I put the three images as layers in a single file (Tools > Photoshop > Load Files Into Photoshop Layers is one way) and then mask, blend, paint and erase as desired. The merge tools in Photoshop are another. Photomatix is one (the image can often look as "natural" as you want, there's nothing about Photomatix that automatically produces the kind of images that scream "HDR"). There are many ways to do what you're talking about. For new BW exposures, though, divided Pyrocat would likely capture the whole range of luminosities in the scene in one go. This (or hdr) bracketing could be useful with an extreme range of tonal values, or where you already have negatives that were bracketed. It's on that layer that you'd apply any needed curves or local tonal adjustments. You'd then flatten the layers (or ctrl+alt+shift+E). You'd then adjust the opacities of the layers to generally get the look you're after, kinda like finding the right contrast setting for your VC silver print.

(Using the darks from that file would give the most shadow separation.) For the middle exposure you'd use something like an extended mid-tone map, and for the the least exposed image you'd use the extended highlight luminosity mask.

For instance, with the layer with the most exposure you'd use something like an extended dark mask. Once the files are aligned and in a layer stack you would apply an appropriate luminosity mask to each layer. In this case we're talking about using luminosity masks to blend files from differently exposed negatives. Like Kirk says, there's only so far you can push this, but that's not the suggestion here. This sounds like using a layer mask and something like a curve to make a tonal adjustment on an image. HDR programs, as a means of exposure blending (rather than creating cartoonish effects), are getting much better-at least the ones I mentioned. They are quite effective for small adjustments, but for a boost say beyond about 2/3-1 stop in shadow areas, I think he will find it lacking. I've been using Tony's luminosity masks for many years. I suppose the same technique could be used for B&W LF.

#Photomatix pro 4.2.5 download software

First can multiple LF images that have been scanned be adequately registered using a software package? Has anyone tried this? Second, I'd like to preserve decent resolution for say a 16 X 20 print, so what are the prospects for doing this?Įssentially I'm not after gaudy effects but would like to preserve the natural rendering found in mostly Fuji Astia chromes. I've not seen any references for doing this in large format so I wonder about a couple of issues. My thought is to make three scans on an Epson 750 then move them to an HDR package such as Photomatix to combine and tweak, then move to PS for final tweaking. I've not fiddled with HDR software at all so have no experience with the technique. Since these are principally chromes with rather crappy dynamic range I've recently had the thought of combining these using some kind of HDR technique to increase dynamic range. This for mostly scenes I thought were particularly unique at the time. Usually that consists of three exposure brackets, one centered and one each under and over at 1 to 2 stops. Over the years I have occasionally taken multiple images using 4X5 film.